MGB Register Forum

Hi all,

My understanding is that the 'kink' in the pipe is nothing to do with clearance or access, it is 'usual' to put 'kinks' in pipes that are subject to expansion and contraction with heat, it allows linear movement without putting stress on the fastening points, you will often see similar 'kinks' in heating systems and realy big kinks (like an omega shape) in steam pipes, I guess the original designer was a good engineer and put the 'kink' in as best practice.

Mike.

Thanks Mike, that sounds to be the most plausible explanation we have so far. Since that pipe is fastened securely at both ends of the rocker cover I can see that expansion and contraction could cause some problems.

Ian F

All a bit off topic but this is how discussions go....in saying that, I did make a new pipe from stainless steel, it has the same O/D but a thinner wall and looks better too.( the internal of the origlnal pipe was quite corroded, full of crud reducing the I/D and made of poor material) I didn't form a 'kink' in the pipe (I do understand expansion loops) but instead made the two fixing points able to flex so as not to stress the pipe fittings.

Nice stainless steel replacement pipe. If you fancied making another one I'd buy it.

Any more thoughts out there on fuse box replacement?

Not sure how to post images, but here is a picture of the under bonnet of an Automatic MGB showing the kickdown cable position - you can see it passes over the area of the bend in the heater pipe. ( you may have to scroll through the pictures to find the engine pictures https://www.surreysmartcentre.co.uk/lis ... automatic/

Many thanks for that! Definitely looks like that kink would be necessary here.......
So we have two plausible explanations I think?

Ian F

but conspicuously fewer on the initial topic.

Yes, my apologies for hijacking the thread,

Ian F

Chris,
Whether you go the old glass route or new style is a personal preference.
I have not seen an old 8 glass fuse box - i have seen someone fit 2 of the old 4 glass fuse boxes , somewhat crammed in but can't recall if
they were side by side or vertical. I considered doing that , but the siting of the servo & brake master cylinder for the later dual brake
circuit cars made it a non-starter for me. As I also have the original harness which has not been butchered + original style round relays ( & spares if they fail) , then have deferred going down the modern route where you can get modular fuses & relay arrangements , which look very neat.
The options for placing new style arrangements seem much greater for cars before the radiator was moved forward as you have plenty of space on the inside wing & on the radiator support which are better protected from the elements.
I bought the various modular bits from Vehicle Wiring Products as referred to above , intending to fit same , but held off "biting the bullet" as i
was happy with the state of my under bonnet harness when i last refurbished & have had no problems since, although still hanker after "upgrading"!
Cheers, Charles

Apologies for photo being upside down - there is just about enough space to fit an OEM second fuse box below , albeit you would
have to deal with the "slant" of the inner wall & push the harness down & perhaps use the bottom box for the original fused circuits.
You could always move the relays forward & place the second OEM style fuse box there.
(Neither solutions are attractive to me)!