What’s the worst job on an MG

[A D Price]

I know I’m going to win this
Trying to put the curclip back on that holds the wheel cylinder on the back plate on the rear brakes. What sadist invented these. I know you can get a special tool, slightly more difficult under the car than doing it on a vice!

[Bumpa]

You can get them on in a couple of minutes with a socket that is around the same diameter as the clip, and a short bolt that will screw into the brake cylinder where the pipe should be. Place the open end of the socket over the clip and screw the bolt in through the socket - you might need a washer under the bolt head. A couple of turns with a spanner and click it slots into place.

[Vic Butler]

Sorting out the electrics when the starter motor on a rubber bumper B is replaced made even more difficult when the replacement motor doesn't have the terminal for the wire to the coil which bypasses the ballast resistor when the starter is running.
I haven't had to do it yet but it seems a great number of replacement starters don't have this terminal despite being catalogued as suitable for 1967 to end of production.

[Ian F]

I know I’m going to win this
Trying to put the curclip back on that holds the wheel cylinder on the back plate on the rear brakes. What sadist invented these. I know you can get a special tool, slightly more difficult under the car than doing it on a vice!

To be honest I have never found this job to be particularly difficult.

Hold wheel cylinder firmly in place with one hand.

Lubricate other side of backplate with Waxoil

Place circlip ends at the beginning of the grooves sufficient to hold it in place.

With a screwdriver (a notched end helps) push the bottom of the "C" upwards.

Always slides in easily!

IanF

[Bumpa]

There are many jobs that frustrate the amateur mechanic. One of my pet hates is removing and refitting the heater.

[Ian F]

I agree Mike, that has to be the worst job. I wrote an article some time ago for the MGCC on how best to tackle it.

Ian F

[Charles Farran]

I agree with Mike & Ian especially with the engine still in the car.
Key hole surgery skills required though the vents on the footwells to cut up the old rubber seal at the base of the heater where the tubes attach before i could prise the heater box upwards. (The replacement rubber seal ( with modern hard rubber) didn't make for easy re - insertion of the heater box either). Definitely a "right of passage" for MGB ownership.
Cheers
Charles

[Bumpa]

Actually you don't need the rubber block at all. The heater works perfectly well without it.

[Charles Farran]

There was certainly a change between the very early MGBs which just used two rigid tubes that connected to the flexible demister tubes ,which were effectively replaced by the large seal. I suspect the idea behind this was to reduce drafts entering the footwell apertures ( the later apertures had no flaps on them) as well as minimise any rain water etc getting in to the car - i appreciate there is a drain at one end of the air intake aperture.
Cheers,
Charles

[Randy Forbes]

While R&R'ing the heater is no picnic, and the RWC retaining clips can be a pita, I find that refitting the xmsn mount bolts on cars with overdrive to be one of the more frustrating tasks.