Dealing with rivets that won’t be drilled!

[Bourne]

So I’ve hit a ‘road bump’ in my efforts to replace the broken hinge on my roadsters quarter light (ventilator glass).

I was able to drill out the rivets holding the lower ‘female’ part of the hinge with relative ease. However the rivets holding (what remains of) the upper ‘male’ hinge have defeated both my original drill pieces and the replacements I bought today at a high street DIY store. As you’ll see with the attachment, I’ve made some progress. However the drill pieces can’t seem to cut further and I draw the line at the hole beginning to glow (momentarily) with heat.

Has anyone had a similar experience and found a solution? Do I need a particular type of drill bit? I’ve read elsewhere that sometimes previous owners have used spot welds instead of rivets and that those are particularly tough to remove? I’d swear I was dealing with rivets, not welds, but I’m far from being an expert.

Worst case scenario the cars going to a garage next weekend for some colour matching and I can get a consult then. But if anyone has a thought in the meantime, I’d love to hear it.

Thanks!

[Paul Scott]

I cannot see exactly whatthis is attached to. But if the hardened pin is still in situe, that may stop your bit.

If there is nothing be hind the rivet I would tap something like a pin nail through the centre.

I'm no expert either, but from past experience the metal pin that breaks is usually hardened.

Regards
Paul

[Ian F]

David,
I haven't had to deal with this area on my BGT, and I can't place the bits you are dealing with, but some general advice:
Go to an engineering factors if you can find one near you (the sort of place which supplies professional workshops) or locate one on the internet. Buy some quality HSS drill bits, they should do the job.
A set of parallel punches should also be on your list, again get the best quality.
Welds from electric welding can be extremely tough and difficult.
If your drill bits are glowing they are toast (so to speak!).
Lubrication of drill bit tips is recommended when used, but most folk don't bother. Cutting oil would be best for that purpose.
You will get there with perseverance!

Ian F

[Ian F]

David,
I haven't had to deal with this area on my BGT, and I can't place the bits you are dealing with, but some general advice:
Go to an engineering factors if you can find one near you (the sort of place which supplies professional workshops) or locate one on the internet. Buy some quality HSS drill bits, they should do the job.
A set of parallel punches should also be on your list, again get the best quality.
Welds from electric welding can be extremely tough and difficult.
If your drill bits are glowing they are toast (so to speak!).
Lubrication of drill bit tips is recommended when used, but most folk don't bother. Cutting oil would be best for that purpose.
You will get there with perseverance!

Ian F

[Bourne]

Thanks Ian, Paul,

Paul - I must admit I’d hoped I’d be able to get the rivets out without removing the glass behind them, so going for them from the other side isn’t an option for now. Assuming another solution doesn’t appear soon though… I may have to lean how to remove and refit the glass and get in behind as you suggest.

Ian - the recommendation on souring drill bits and parallel punches is gratefully received. I shall look into that for next weekend. Just to clarify, the glowing was coming from the holes the drill was making rather then the drill bits - but I’ve come to the conclusion the drill bits are toast anyway.

Ah well.., I was reminded by a family member that I said I bought the car to learn on!

For reference… I’ve attached a photo of the wider area of the quarter light - just to elaborate where I am working. I’ve also attached a photo of the replacement hinge part.

[Paul Scott]

I would say the glass will have to be removed or it will break anyway. As soon as the rivet centre moves the glass is going to get hit.

I'm sure the glass will need to be removed to not only getting out the old rivets, but to install the new ones. The new rivets will need to be the correct length so they do not touch the glass.

Regards
Paul

[Paul Scott]

Have read here:
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt- ... e.2542538/

It might help.

StaySafe & B Good

[Tom Brearley]

In addition to good quality bits it's worth investing in a serious drill, if you haven't got one already. The cordless ones from Makita are excellent, although not cheap.

[Bourne]

In addition to good quality bits it's worth investing in a serious drill, if you haven't got one already. The cordless ones from Makita are excellent, although not cheap.

I’ve heard good things about Matika’s before. My drill is a rival brand but it did a fabulous job on the first two rivets (holding the lower female hinge). It was just the last two that defeated me. As you say… the investment in tools repays itself quickly.

Anyhows: I think Paul Scott’s hit the rivet on the head so to speak. The only solution appears to be removing the glass and pushing the rivets out from within the frame. Given that takes me into unfamiliar territory (removing and refitting glass), I think I’ll save the job for the long 4 day weekend in June when I can take my time

I will of course update the thread on progress at that point. In the meantime thanks all for the thoughts and council

David

[Statler]

I've had good results with Bosch HSS-Co (Cobalt) drill bits.
They are harder than HSS and I used one to drill through a broken tap. It did take a few hours and a lot of patience.
If you could clamp the frame and use a vertical drill, you'll get much better results than using a hand held drill.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-26085858 ... 68&sr=8-10