Headlamp relays

[Allan T]

I'll be interested to hear Duncan's answer!

If they're happy running both beams together there'd be more heat generated than from either beam alone, but perhaps that's significantly less than from tungstens?

Ive emailed the seller to see whether their LED bulbs are capable of running both at once. Though the standard wiring is Either/ Or thats not the case for the MGF stalk switch I'm constrained to use. That one runs Low = dipped beam only and then High = Full plus Dipped. If the LEDs cannot run both at the same time i'll need to incorporate a relay to cut the dipped when high beam is on.

[Not_Anumber]

Duncan has replied to say that they can only run either/or beams, not both concurrently. Usefully their driver unit includes a relay which will shut off the dipped beam whilst the main beam is running. That's impressive and it will simplify my column switch wiring, I have ordered a pair.

[Allan T]

If you want to mount your control i/cs on your radiator shroud as I've done, you'll need two of Duncan's extension leads each side - ie a total of four extension leads.

The i/cs are out of the weather there, and readily available for diagnostics in the event of any kind of h/l failure - eg you can quickly swap i/cs from side-to-side to make sure they're working as they should, before dismantling the h/l to check the LED itself, or go through the wiring connections.

I think you'll enjoy working with and using them - they're lovely bits of kit.

People with built-in sidelamps will probably want to replace those with LEDs too.

Look forward to hearing how you get on - and how nice to be recommending two excellent old-school small-business independent traders (Duncan Rickards and Ashley Hinton) in one morning!


Allan

Duncan has replied to say that they can only run either/or beams, not both concurrently. Usefully their driver unit includes a relay which will shut off the dipped mean whilst the main beam is running. That's impressive and it will simplify my column switch wiring, I have ordered a pair.

[Michael Barclay]

Hi Chris
Providing the LED bulbs are capable of running main and dip together then the relay upgrade can be made to do this using the existing switches and wiring. It will require a wire from the light switch and a 12 v Feed from the fuse box.
Mike Barclay

[Not_Anumber]

Thats the point. Duncan has said the uprated LED bulbs they supply would overheat if the dipped and main beams were allowed to run together. They sensibly have protection built in that shuts off the dipped beam when the main beam is in use. This automatic feature will be especially good for me because the MGF lighting switch I need to use would otherwise have left the dipped beam running when the main beam is on.

I asked about needing an extension so the controller boxes could be fitted in the engine compartment, remotely from the headlamp. He advised that the design of the controllers have recently changed and they are now sufficiently small to fit in the headlamp bowls without the previous clearance issues. Also the wiring is now continuous so there is no provision to fit an extension between the bulb and controller .

[Allan T]

That's an interesting development, and should give a neater and simpler job, and without the extra costs of the four extension leads.

The cabling provided with the kit is heat-tolerant, but if you've any o/e non-heat-tolerant wiring in the h/l bowls, be careful to route it away from the heatsinks.

Good luck - and post back with how you get on.


Allan

I asked about needing an extension so the controller boxes could be fitted in the engine compartment, remotely from the headlamp. He advised that the design of the controllers have recently changed and they are now sufficiently small to fit in the headlamp bowls without the previous clearance issues. Also the wiring is now continuous so there is no provision to fit an extension between the bulb and controller .