It will probably be fine - make sure you get the low pressure model. The only slight concern for me would be the plastic body. Screwing fuel lines into plastic can be tricky. Overtighten and you crack it. I went for one the Hardi ones from MGBHive. https://mgbhive.co.uk/product/7a-mgb-po ... e-washers/ The car is still to be built up so I can't say what it is like in use.
Mike
1969 MGB GTV8 3.9 Conversion. Many classics have passed through my hands but the faithful BGT V8 is the last man standing.
You can get a SU pump with electronics instead of the points. I bet Welsh MG in Rhostyllen can help you. I had my original pump pack up about 10 years ago on my way to the Arden Groups Heritage run. I got it off at the side off the road and cleaned the points with some wet&dry. Took about 20 mins and we still made it to the start of the run OK. I haven't touched it since. The problem with any electronics is that if they fail you are stuffed. I worry constantly about my Luminition ignition. I'm trying to source another 25D distributer as back up.
I think Paul has a valid point. I do recall that a tap with a hammer (or a suitably sized rock if no tools available.....) was often used to persuade an original type SU fuel pump back into life if misbehaving. My original pump lasted around 40 years and never missed a beat, but I did eventually replace it with a similar pump just as preventative maintenance.
Ian F
MGCC member
1972 BGT, Blaze, Navy trim, recessed grill
1961 Midget, 948cc, Clipper Blue, Blue trim and weather gear
Thanks for the replies and food for thought. Just one question, once a fuel pump has stuck and been freed with a tap, is it more likely that it will do so again?
David, I would have to say that once the original type pump begins misbehaving it is probably time to overhaul or replace it. The point I was suggesting was that an original type pump was probably more likely to be fixed by the roadside and get you home than a pump dependent on electronics.
Just my opinion of course!
Ian F
MGCC member
1972 BGT, Blaze, Navy trim, recessed grill
1961 Midget, 948cc, Clipper Blue, Blue trim and weather gear
If you replace it with a new SU pump it will be ethanol compliant - they have been for some years. I would agree with the above comments that the points type is best should it fail (as with ignition points). If you buy an alternative aftermarket type you need a pump with a capacity of 7 gallons per hour, which was the later spec for the MGB. Also make sure you have the correct mounting brackets and washers for the banjo couplings as well. You can then treat the bracket as sacrificial because it is likely to be impossible to undo the clamping bolt after 51yrs.
If this is the first time you have looked at the fuel system and don't know when the pump, fuel pipes and hoses were last changed, I would recommend you change these as well to make the car ethanol compliant. There are some parts in the carbs that need changing as well, but the do seem to be slightly more resilient to ethanol than the pipes and hoses. And only use E5 98 octane fuel. The car was designed to run on this not 95 octane!
Pete
1969 MGB Roadster
2020 MG HS Exclusive
2007 Mercedes SLK
Plus 34 other cars since 1965
