LE Alloy Wheels v Triumph Stag alloys

[Peter Cresswell]

I am not convinced the wheels the LE cars used were exactly the same as the Stag wheels. They look similar without a doubt, but Clausager's book 'The Original MGB', he mentions 'The wheels were five-spoke cast alloys, similar in design to Triumph Stag wheels...'. Rimmers list the wheel for the Stag but don't list it for the MGB which I would assume if they were the same wheel, they would.

Does anyone on the Forum know for sure they were identical to Stag wheels - particularly the offset? Not including colour of course!!

[Adrian Oliver]

Hi Peter.

Have a look at this:

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,546662

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Adrian
Thanks for a great link. Seems others have found out the hard way that there are differences.

To sum up for 'our' forum, the MGB LE used a similar wheel, but it was 5J x 14 rim width instead of the Stag's 5.5J x 14. The Stag wheels do seem to fit an MGB, but need a 5mm spacer to clear the track rod ends at the front, and at the rear to clear the drive shaft nut. The MGB uses a larger diameter wheel stud over the Stag so fitting you have to use the LE nuts (They are 'lug nuts' which have a sleeve that goes through the wheel and locates the wheel). The nuts are aluminium so be careful not to over-tighten them - they only hold the wheel on and don't locate the wheel on the hubs or carry any of the turning forces.

There was one comment in the link that referred to the values of LE wheels v Stag wheels in Australia, but this may be related to the comparative rarity of the LE wheel over a Stag wheel.

The other thing I would add is a 5.5J wheel with 185/70 tyre can rub on the arches at the rear under hard cornering.

[Colin Goodey]

Hi

I've not heard the issue with the track rod ends fouling the Stag wheel before, unless the wrong size track rod end has been fitted, but the rears definitely don't fit.

The easy way to tell the difference is by the MG wheels having one of 2 part number designations both commencing BHH.

[Ian Smith]

Most interesting.............

So would a 185/70 14 tyre on a 6 inch wide Minilite rim be a no no on an MGB...I'm guessing it could foul both the arch and the suspension depending on the offset of the wheel?

Ian

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Ian,
This is one of those 'it depends' replies!
All of the spares suppliers for the MGB only offer Minator wheels up to 5.5 in rim width, and these will take the 185/70 x 14 tyres. They also claim that they 'shouldn't foul the rear wheel arches'. However on my car they do on both sides under heavy corning loads, and they rub on the same side as the direction of the corner because the cornering forces move the axle across the car by around 1in. from its centre line at rest. A lot of people think the rubbing is on the other side to the direction of the corner and is caused by the compression of the suspension. This is not so as on that side the clearance is increased to its maximum by the axle movement.

If the car has had lower rear wing panels fitted (like it appears mine has at some time) even at rest the tyres are quite close to the lip of the wheel arch and on my car there is about 0.5in clearance on the drivers side and a tad more on the passenger side using 185/70 x 14 tyres. I think this is because it is very difficult to fit the repair panels accurately. I have ground away about 50% of the lip but it still rubs, and there is a limit to how much you can increase the clearance by using this method because you start to cut into the spot welds.
Cars with Heritage shells seem to have a different amount of clearance on one side only and it varies from left or right on different cars. The key thing is that the propshaft has to be in the centre of the transmission tunnel and if this is so then it is not an alignment problem but more of an assembly of the out panels on the shell problem.

Incidentally all the FIA racers use 5.5in Minators or genuine Minilights and Dunlop 550 x 14 racing tyres. These would rub the wheel arches all the time when cornering and if you feel the lip of the wheelarch you find it has been folded up to maximise clearance and present a smooth face if the tyre does touch. There might be an FIA Spec Minilite wheel available which keeps the track of the car within the specified limits, and by using a slightly different offset provides a 5.5in rim. There certainly is for Minis and they cost a little more than the non FIA wheels.

You probably gather from all of the above that 5.5in wheels are sometimes marginal, so 6in wheels will certainly foul the rear arches!

One further point that relates to the front suspension clearance is that Minator and Minilite wheels can foul on the track road ends. This seems to be when aftermarket ones are used (they have a Z at the end of the part number and cost around £5.00 each) because the joint head is fatter. The answer is to use OEM ones (without the Z suffix and costing around £12.00 each) as these have a smaller diameter head. The OEM ones generally last longer as well.

[Ian Smith]

Thanks

.........................That's why I'm selling the 6 inch Minilites I have from the Stag - prefer the OEM wheels.

Ian

[Colin Goodey]

Hi

As long as the offset of the minilite is the same you should be fine.

[Ian Smith]

Well Ive sold the 6 inch Minilites for exactly what I paid for them, and obtained a set of genuine LE wheels - albeit courier firm booked to collect has failed twice to collect so far.

Does anyone know the spec/size of wheel nut I'll need - assuming I cant use the standard ones holding the Rostyles on?

Anyone got any for sale?

Thanks

Ian

[Peter Cresswell]

Hi Ian,
The wheel nuts for the LE Wheels as BHH2269. These are finished in black but if you prefer chrome these are BHH2269CP. Besides having the cone taper they have a sleeve that goes through the hole in the wheel.
You might also check these http://www.mgpartsuk.co.uk/store/index. ... ct_id=7290 as they appear to have a sale price for them at present, but the are still £8.28 each!