Prospective Ownership - Sense Check Questions

[BlueComet]

Hi everyone,

If my circumstances stay okay, next year I'm hoping to enter either MGB or Midget ownership.

Although I know a fair bit about the B, I could really do with your knowledge to help me sense check whether I can realistically own one.

Firstly, I would be looking to spend around £10k and have a car that's not only completely rust free, but has also had extensive anti rust treatments. Is this a realistic expectation for the money?

Secondly, I have not yet built a garage but have the off road space to errect an outdoor Carcoon. My plan would be to keep the car in the Carcoon during the autumn and winter, occasionally taking it out if there is no salt or water on the roads. In the summer, I would want to use the car regularly and keep it under a cover when not in use. Would this plan of storage and usage be sufficient for keeping the worst of the rust at bay?

Thirdly, I'm very keen to carry out my own work on the car. I have done simple jobs (spark plugs, brake pads, radiators) on cars before, but for the more complex ones I would really need someone to teach me in person. Is this something that other MG owners would realistically help me with?

Lastly, do I need someone knowledgeable to look at a prospective car with me? I understand to look for rust in areas such as the sill, but I'm not an expert.

Why am I drawn to MG ownership? I guess part of it is that I'm drawn to the simplicity, new cars to me are far too complex and have all the passion of a fridge freezer or a washing machine. I love the styling and presence of the B and Midget, and the idea that I can enjoy a car within the speed limits.

I should also add that it's keeping the rust at bay that worries me the most. I previously owned an MX5 MK2 (NB) and painfully and expensively learned that patching up rust is no good. Either you cut out all the rust and preserve properly, or better still buy a rust free car and preserve as best you can.

I look forward to your replies

Many thanks
Matt

[Vic Butler]

Where in the UK are you?

[BlueComet]

Hi Vic,

I'm near Southampton

Many thanks
Matt

[Vic Butler]

I'm in north west Hampshire. I will be removing the cylinder head on my MGB in the next couple of months or so if you're interested.

[BlueComet]

Thanks Vic - I will PM you soon

[Bumpa]

Hi everyone,

If my circumstances stay okay, next year I'm hoping to enter either MGB or Midget ownership.

Although I know a fair bit about the B, I could really do with your knowledge to help me sense check whether I can realistically own one.

Firstly, I would be looking to spend around £10k and have a car that's not only completely rust free, but has also had extensive anti rust treatments. Is this a realistic expectation for the money?

Secondly, I have not yet built a garage but have the off road space to errect an outdoor Carcoon. My plan would be to keep the car in the Carcoon during the autumn and winter, occasionally taking it out if there is no salt or water on the roads. In the summer, I would want to use the car regularly and keep it under a cover when not in use. Would this plan of storage and usage be sufficient for keeping the worst of the rust at bay?

Thirdly, I'm very keen to carry out my own work on the car. I have done simple jobs (spark plugs, brake pads, radiators) on cars before, but for the more complex ones I would really need someone to teach me in person. Is this something that other MG owners would realistically help me with?

Lastly, do I need someone knowledgeable to look at a prospective car with me? I understand to look for rust in areas such as the sill, but I'm not an expert.

Why am I drawn to MG ownership? I guess part of it is that I'm drawn to the simplicity, new cars to me are far too complex and have all the passion of a fridge freezer or a washing machine. I love the styling and presence of the B and Midget, and the idea that I can enjoy a car within the speed limits.

I should also add that it's keeping the rust at bay that worries me the most. I previously owned an MX5 MK2 (NB) and painfully and expensively learned that patching up rust is no good. Either you cut out all the rust and preserve properly, or better still buy a rust free car and preserve as best you can.

I look forward to your replies

Many thanks
Matt

Your plan sounds OK if, and it's a big if, you get the right car. I have just sold a very sound 1971 MGB roadster with new sills etc for £11,800, which I thought was a bit low but I agreed to it as I needed to move the car on.

There are many places these cars rot, for example, inside the front wings both above the headlights and at the rear of the wing high up. You mention the sills, but do you realise that the sill goes from the front wheel arch right back to the rear wheel arch. The front and rear parts are covered by the outer wings - a grand place for rot to start. Under the sill is the strength of the car in the so-called castle rail, an upside down top-hat section. I am attaching a sketch of a cross-section through the sill which might be useful. Then there's the rear chassis rails, the tops of the wings where the steel beading is inserted - I could go on. Yes, if you can find someone who understands the problems to go with you jump at the chance. Don't get sold a lemon.

[Vic Butler]

Matt, PM sent yesterday.

[BlueComet]

Hi everyone,

If my circumstances stay okay, next year I'm hoping to enter either MGB or Midget ownership.

Although I know a fair bit about the B, I could really do with your knowledge to help me sense check whether I can realistically own one.

Firstly, I would be looking to spend around £10k and have a car that's not only completely rust free, but has also had extensive anti rust treatments. Is this a realistic expectation for the money?

Secondly, I have not yet built a garage but have the off road space to errect an outdoor Carcoon. My plan would be to keep the car in the Carcoon during the autumn and winter, occasionally taking it out if there is no salt or water on the roads. In the summer, I would want to use the car regularly and keep it under a cover when not in use. Would this plan of storage and usage be sufficient for keeping the worst of the rust at bay?

Thirdly, I'm very keen to carry out my own work on the car. I have done simple jobs (spark plugs, brake pads, radiators) on cars before, but for the more complex ones I would really need someone to teach me in person. Is this something that other MG owners would realistically help me with?

Lastly, do I need someone knowledgeable to look at a prospective car with me? I understand to look for rust in areas such as the sill, but I'm not an expert.

Why am I drawn to MG ownership? I guess part of it is that I'm drawn to the simplicity, new cars to me are far too complex and have all the passion of a fridge freezer or a washing machine. I love the styling and presence of the B and Midget, and the idea that I can enjoy a car within the speed limits.

I should also add that it's keeping the rust at bay that worries me the most. I previously owned an MX5 MK2 (NB) and painfully and expensively learned that patching up rust is no good. Either you cut out all the rust and preserve properly, or better still buy a rust free car and preserve as best you can.

I look forward to your replies

Many thanks
Matt

Your plan sounds OK if, and it's a big if, you get the right car. I have just sold a very sound 1971 MGB roadster with new sills etc for £11,800, which I thought was a bit low but I agreed to it as I needed to move the car on.

There are many places these cars rot, for example, inside the front wings both above the headlights and at the rear of the wing high up. You mention the sills, but do you realise that the sill goes from the front wheel arch right back to the rear wheel arch. The front and rear parts are covered by the outer wings - a grand place for rot to start. Under the sill is the strength of the car in the so-called castle rail, an upside down top-hat section. I am attaching a sketch of a cross-section through the sill which might be useful. Then there's the rear chassis rails, the tops of the wings where the steel beading is inserted - I could go on. Yes, if you can find someone who understands the problems to go with you jump at the chance. Don't get sold a lemon.
Sill X-section.jpg

Thanks for taking the time to reply - every bit of information I can get is helpful. I think my plan is to purchase from either a reputable specialist or someone within the club. This of course doesn't guarantee that a car is rust free, but should hopefully be a better starting point.

[Not_Anumber]

Its worth searching through the old posts on this forum and others to familiarise yourself with the key points, pleasures and pitfalls of MGBs. Almost every conceivable question has been asked and answered at some point so there is a lot of material. This will also help with your choice of car to buy.

[BlueComet]

I have to give a big thanks to Vic for his time on Sunday. I helped Vic remove the cylinder head on his 77 B GT, and for the first time I had a chance to sit in an MGB.

Whilst only stationary, the seat position felt spot on - low down and stretched out. The gear stick also felt lovely - a short throw with a nice mechanical feel.

The cylinder head on Vic's car has hilariously large inlet valves, and I hope the head can be saved given it's a one of a kind piece of machining. Everything else in the engine bay looks simple enough to work on and is encouraging for a novice mechanic.

Vic gave me some pointers on checking for rust - including feeling in the wheel arch at the top of the trumpet section, checking the sill inside the drivers footwell and looking under the car at the rear suspension hangers.

Hopefully some time next year I will be in a position to start looking for a B. I've recently moved house and I'm just working through a few DIY jobs (and expense) before I can start looking.

Thanks again for the support and advice, and I will be checking in to the forum as my B journey hopefully progresses!

Matt