MGB Register Forum

Hi Guys,

So i picked up a Teal Blue '73 B GT a few weeks ago and im just currently waiting for the DVLA to process my re-registration (long story...). Unfortunately it didn't come with much info, i know a few bits have been replaced like the head gasket, sender unit and a few other bits and bobs but that's as much as i know really. I have flushed the brake fluid and replaced the rear slave cylinders and i believe brakes are okay now (not been able to test properly as not got paperwork so that i can tax/insure to drive on the road). No idea how long the oil has been sitting, coolant, how old the various rubber pipes are etc etc. On that note then, what would you guys suggest i change/replace/re-do so that its safe to drive? (i did give it a test drive before i bought it and the only thing that was iffy were the brakes). I will only need to drive it for a month or so because at the end of the year i will be putting it into the garage and completely stripping it down for a restoration and respray.

Cheers,
Harry.

Hi Harry,
I would suggest that anything you do now should be compatible with your restoration plans. In other words don't spend on anything now and have to do it again. Safety should be your immediate priority if you intend to drive it around for a month or so, but as you have checked and replaced parts in the brakes the next area I think should be the fuel system. Replacing the flexible pipes, pump and carb parts now means you won't have to do this again later, but make sure any flexible (and rigid metal for that matter) is ethanol compatible.

By driving the car around now for a few miles you will get a good idea of any mechanical restoration that needs to be undertaken, so listen for knocks and clunks as you drive, any signs of misfiring or overheating, and make sure items like the heater works, and other electrical items. You will also become aware of any leaks of oil or water including rain getting into the car.

Post some pictures, and good luck with your project.

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the reply!
Yes that's what i was thinking, just replace things that are either needed or can be used again whilst undergoing restoration. I think i will need to replace the fuel pipes because 1 of them doesn't have a rubber end, it seems to have disintegrated or went missing, and the previous owner just clamped over the braided part instead. Why do they have to be ethanol compatible may i ask?
Which parts in the carbs would you suggest that i replace/renew?
Do you think that it may be a good idea to replace any of the oil or coolant? As im not too sure how long its been since changed (could have been years for all i know). What about the overdrive too, is there anything i can do to that to make sure that its healthy and not got any old oil/contaminants that may cause damage down the line?

Is there any way to check the sills properly without taking the outer sills off? I cant see any signs of rust on the outside, or would you suggest that i remove whilst respray the car just to be on the safe side?

Thanks again!
Harry

The points you raise!
The rubber end on the braided fuel lines is just a collar that makes them look neat - and to stop the braided wire ends sticking in your fingers whilst working on the car!

The fuel these days has ethanol in it and the ethanol rots rubber. All new fuel lines made these days are ethanol proof, but beware if the price seems very cheap, especially if buying from an unknown source on-line. The ethanol is currently up to 10% in regular unleaded and up to 5% in super unleaded, but there are moves afoot to make this a minimum of 10% in the future so any parts you for the fuel system these days needs to be ethanol proof if you are going to make it future proof.

There are also parts in the carbs that ethanol attacks but overhaul kits from the main suppliers or from Burlen Fuel System direct will contain all the parts you need for the SUs.

Unless you are going to use or store the car in sub-zero temperatures with the coolant still in the system, I would just leave it alone as you will have to drain it when you remove the engine and gearbox. If you are planning on an engine overhaul I would leave the oil as is, as again you will have to drain that.

When you drive the car make sure the Overdrive works both when cold and when hot (feel the gear lever and if it is warm then the oil is warmed up). Incidentally, if the gear lever never gets warm after 20 or 30 miles then there is little or no oil in the gearbox.

Checking the internal structure of the sills is hard unless you have access to a borescope (inspection camera). The visible parts of the sills are not really the problem as any rust is apparent, but the sills extend behind the front and rear wings and these are bad area for rot to take hold. Rust on the bottom of the front wings is a sign that all is not well behind the wing and similarly at the bottom or the rear wings in front of the wheel arch. There are 4 parts to each sill: The inner side member (which has the seat belt mounts), the outer sill, a vertical diaphragm inbetween them and the castle section which joins the sill to the floor. You also have to cut into the rear wing to replace the sills but repair panels are available to replace the area cut out. The sills are very important for the strength of the bodyshell and are a fairly complex structure and time consuming to replace so are expensive to have replaced professionally

This has arisen on an MGOC forum and that is regarding the flexible hose from the engine to the bulkhead which goes to the oil pressure gauge. There have been several failures on this hose and the replacement ones fail very quickly. I'd check the hose and if you need to replace it contact Stevson Motors in Birmingham. They manufacture an uprated version.
Otherwise an oil and filter change is advisable and a check on the oil cooler hoses is advisable too. Good luck with your purchase.
. Vic Butler

Hi Peter,

Ahh i see! It should be okay for now then, i may still replace it though as it can be used going forward.

You would have thought i should have known that it contains ethanol! I will ensure to replace components with ethanol compatible parts. On this note, my Dad sent me an email yesterday about ethanol in fuel and the changes that are coming in. Here is a link to a survey that you may find useful - https://fbhvc.us14.list-manage.com/trac ... 8b78501a3a. The email explains the changes that are coming into place too so was quite interesting.

Okay yeah, i'm planning to to remove the engine and gearbox so i will just wait until then to replace the fluids.
Interesting about the gear-stick, i hadn't thought about that! I will give it a go when i get it on the road!

I have access to a (cheap) borescope so that may be an option just so i can get an idea as to what it looks like. Would i enter through the drain hole at the front of the door cutout? Or is there a better place to go in through so that i can get a better view? im pretty sure its had a brand new set of front wings in recent years too so hopefully sills have been done at the same time.

Thanks!
Harry.