GT headlining.

[Iain F Simpson]

I about 6 months into the rebuilding of a 72 BGT. Pleased with current progress. Many layers of paint removed to bare metal, full right sill, right floor, both front wings, inner wing trumpets, right chassis leg and many more bits replaced. Much other bodywork including door hinges, boot floor, oil cooler tray, inner wings and back of side window openings repaired with new metal. The shell has now had a couple of coats of high build primer ready for flattening off. All my welding is finished.

I am now looking at how to sort out the head lining. It is very badly nicotine stained.

I have removed the headlining including the fibrous curved sheet it is attached to without damaging it. There are several rusty marks on the inner face of the steel roof which will require treatment.

This is what I am planning to do.

I feel that if I try to remove the existing vinyl lining from the curved fibre backing then the whole thing will end up as a pile of powder, so that is not really an option.
I think the best option would be to use the existing roof lining of both the fibre and vinyl as a mould to let me make a replacement grp curved backing to replace the fibre one. This should then be covered with proper marine quality foam backed vinyl and the assembly should be an exact fit for the roof.
I must admit that I am a retired boat builder and quite experienced in laminating fibreglass and fixing vinyl to curved and flat panels. The new panel should be about the same thickness as the old brittle fibre one and be flexible enough to slide into position through the back hatch (the hatch and it's hinges have been removed)
I also intend to fit sound proofing material to the underside of the steel roof (after rust treating it) to minimise drumming prior to sliding the replacement headlining assembly into position.

Can anyone please make any observations as to what I am planning to is feasible or point out any problems I may run into.

Thank you
Iain

[Iain F Simpson]

I have tackled the headlining in a different manner to my above thoughts.
With the original fibre headlining out I did not initially remove the original vinyl before laminating a full sheet of fibreglass woven roving then a layer of surfacing tissue on to the upper side of the assembly using epoxy resin. I had to preheat the epoxy resin to get it thin enough to penetrate adequately to get a good bond as the temperature was a bit on the low side (5°C). With this set I now have a headlining board which does not fall apart when it is moved but is flexible enough to slide in and out of position. I then removed the old vinyl and replaced it. I also rust treated the inside of the steel roof and covered it with 7mm self adhesive foam soundproofing.
I have not yet refitted the new headlining assembly as I am still in the process of replacing the glued on vinyl on the b and c posts.

The side thin plastic mouldings whick were stuck on with tons of contact adhesive had been well vandalised by previous owners and came off in several pieces. I did a successful 'all the kings men' repair to them using gorilla tape and covered them with foam/scrim backed vinyl. They fit very well and all the previous damage cannot be seen. They will be held in place onto the car with high temperature contact adhesive. I also recovered the front and back mouldings.

I am using a light beige snakeskin vinyl instead of the original grey and the wavy pattern of it tends to hide any small imperfections. It has a 4mm backing with a scrim on the back.

As I am working under a carport the weather sometimes makes the decision as to whether I can work on the car or not.