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Ian,

The part is available, but the seam is at the same location as for rubber bumper cars. The fuel filler aperture was confirmed by the attendant at MGB Hive to be complete and not spit as it should be.

I was told by MGB Hive that the presses for the genuine HZA4227 part are no longer available to press the correct part.

Brian

OK thanks Brian. A bit of a shame I guess, and very misleading on the BMH website. Will save you some cash if you just take the positives

Ian For

Ian Fozzard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 21, 2020 12:06 pm Brian, the rebated flange runs top to bottom, covered at the top with the horizontal piece in my last photo. I guess spot welded to the wing panel and lead loaded outside.
My opinion on the work required would be to simply make good any repairs by welding and finish the outside with fillet (an elastic type such as Plastic Padding Professional). Unless you are aiming for a concours restoration I wouldn't be too concerned about the appearance inside the wheel well.

Ian F

I think your thoughts on this are right Ian. To change the rear panel to the correct one (even if a new old stock one could be sourced) Brian would then have to change both rear wings (and assuming they could be sourced)! With the welding and paint this is probably a £3,000+ project! And the car wouldn't look any different when it was finished. If all the metalwork is in good condition other than fixing the rust down the seam, filling it with a modern filler and repainting the area might come to £500 if it all done by a specialist.
Pete

I've just been investigating the seams again on the car and thinking about my course of action. I had come to the conclusion that amending the existing rear / valance panel and even extending the wings with homemade repair sections would be too much work. The rear / valance panel could be cut down the middle of the fuel fill aperture and a joddler tool used to press the rebate on the ends of the in-situ panel, but that is a lot of work.

The seam joint area does need repair, so I'm now considering whether I should prepare two small repair seam sections, one of which having a rebated flange to mimic the original fitting, or simply to inset a flat repair where the seam was, thereby removing the seam all together.

I found it difficult to get any meaningful information or clarity on how the seam was configured for these early cars, so I want to thank you both for contributing to my query thread.

Brian

A pleasure to help Brian, especially in these strange times!!

Ian F