MGB Register Forum

Fuel pump connections.
They are labelled with writing (IN and OUT) cast on the body, but phone call to Burlen Fuel Systems who make all the SU pumps and Carbs should put you right.
When you replace the plastic fuel pipe, I really recommend you use stainless braided hoses. A set for your car might be £50+ for the full set (later cars should have a very long flexible feed pipe under the bonnet, but they will last longer, are less likely to get damaged by flying stones, and always look good.
Contacts: For Burlen see http://burlen.co.uk/ for contact details - ask for technical advice.
For fuel pipes try Stevson Motors in Birmingham - http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/Stevson% ... epage.html. They should have them on the shelf for a 1979 MGB. They are a bit cheaper than the main MGB suppliers, but check prices from the websites before you commit.
Given your car has not had ethanol fuel passed through the system yet (except for the recent 4 gallons) you will probably be ok with the steel pipes for a while - no guarantees though!
Incidentally MGBs run better on super unleaded, and this has less ethanol (5% max) in it so far.

Hi Vic

Cheers!

But I'm not sure if I've got the Banjo Inlet and Outlet on the wrong Inlet and Outlet of the Fuel Pump and with the benefit of hindsight I should have marked which one went where

Also I cannot open the Bonnet, when I pull the Bonnet Release it unlatches but I cannot pull it up and to make matters worse the front bumper is pushed up against the back wall of the Garage

I very much doubt if She will roll back, as I am betting the disc brakes on the front will be rusty, so I will have to fix the Broken Fuel Pipe, then try and start her to see if She will move

This tiny little garage is about the size of a shoe box but once I get her out of there then I can trailer her home

Hi Peter

Cheers!

The problem now is getting her out of this Garage, so I have got more room to work and so I may have to use Plastic Fuel Pipe just to try and get her mobile to begin with

But I'll have to take the Fuel Pump out because I cannot see the Inlet/Outlet markings without doing so

Hi Guys

Progress but problems!

I managed to see the Mileometer and She has done 86,000 from new

As for the Fuel Pump I did have the Banjos on the right Inlets and Outlets but then I noticed the other Fuel Pipe was broken, as the plastic fuel pipes got so brittle they just crumbled

So today I replaced all the Fuel Pipes, except there is a problem, as although I'm getting fuel up to the Carbs there is Air in the Fuel Pipe that just will not come out, as I temporarily put on a Clear Plastic Fuel Pipe so I could see if the Fuel was getting up there

There is Air getting into the Fuel Pipe from somewhere.

It could be the Banjos on the Pump or because I have got the rear end of the Car jacked up

But the one thing I haven't connected is that thin plastic pipe to the Spigot on the Fuel Pipe, could Air be getting in there? as I haven't dismantled the Pump I only put new points in

Also I took out the Spark Plugs which looked a bit grotty and also checked the Rad, which was still full up with Water

Then I spun the Engine with the Plugs out and very quickly got an Oil Pressure of 50psi

Just got to get rid of that Air and then She might Start!

Blucky, if the fuel pump won't stop ticking then air is getting in. It should tick rapidly then slow down until the carburettor float chambers are full and then stop. This is without the engine running. Also check that the carburettors aren't flooding which is quite possible as dirt in the pipework could hold open the float chamber needle and with the dreadful HIF4's it's a carburettor off job as the float chamber is integral with the carburettor body unlike HS ones.

Hi Vic

The Fuel Pump won't stop ticking as after every 6 inches of fuel there is a 2inch Air Bubble

No idea where it is coming from but don't think the Carbs are flooding as the bubbles are well before the Carbs

Definitely an air leak, Blucky. The solid fuel pipe runs underneath and up into the engine bay where the flexible pipes go to the carburettor. You'll probably have to wait until you've got better access.

Hi Vic

The Banjo fittings that go into the fuel pipe tubes have a slight indentation on one side of the ring

This is the fitting the Banjo Bolt goes through. so I am wondering if this slight indentation, should be facing the fuel pump fitting or facing the bolt?

Does it say anything in your manual?

Morning Blucky.
I checked my 2 official manuals and a Haynes one and they all say remove and refit the pipes ensuring they are correctly fitted to the inlet and outlet. That's all so sorry I can't help.
However I would hazard a guess and say the indentation would be under the bolt head.

Hi Vic

I did some extensive research on this and it seems you are quite right, the bolt head on the Banjo should go into the side with the indentation and I had got them going in the wrong way!

But what I'm not quite sure about is whether or not the Banjo Bolt head needs a Washer or an 'O' Ring or maybe nothing at all?

When I took the Banjo Bolt out, the only washers were between the Banjo Fitting and the Fuel Pump Inlet/Outlet

There wasn't any Washer between the Banjo Bolt Head and the Banjo Fitting and I know for sure that nothing dropped out, when I took it apart

So I will carefully reassemble it with the Banjo Bolt Head going into the Indentation side of the Banjo Fitting and see if that cures the Air leak and in the event that it doesn't, then tomorrow I will go down to a hydraulic shop near me and get some Washers and 'O' Rings

At least I now know where the Air is getting into the System, so it hopefully will be a simple fix

Thanks for your help

John