Re: Engine rebuild
Posted: Tue Feb 18, 2020 12:09 pm
From what I remember Peter Burgess likes the Piper BHR2702E cam for fast road use that's a 270/272 deg with 0.4" lift. It requires a stepped key to move the timing +4 deg. That's 0.56" (14.2 mm) lift at the valve which is a significant increase over the standard 0.3645" (9.25 mm) and may require unique springs to ensure sufficient coil clearance. I'm sure Peter will advise.
The running in procedure that Peter Cresswell describes is wise but you can be sure that none of that was done in the factory. Maybe its more critical for performance cams. I have converted my B to the A series type short followers and long pushrods. I have an Indian camshaft presumably from the Ambassador. Its done 35000 miles now with no sign of wear and has the appearance of induction hardened steel. I would advise you to stick with the chilled cast iron followers because that's the best from a tribological viewpoint to run on hardened steel. Try to find some genuine Leyland ones if you can or get the highest quality available. Steel on steel doesn't work well.
The running in procedure that Peter Cresswell describes is wise but you can be sure that none of that was done in the factory. Maybe its more critical for performance cams. I have converted my B to the A series type short followers and long pushrods. I have an Indian camshaft presumably from the Ambassador. Its done 35000 miles now with no sign of wear and has the appearance of induction hardened steel. I would advise you to stick with the chilled cast iron followers because that's the best from a tribological viewpoint to run on hardened steel. Try to find some genuine Leyland ones if you can or get the highest quality available. Steel on steel doesn't work well.