Fuel tank change

[Mario60]

Hi
Hope you are well. I am changing the fuel tank on my 72B and the replacement tank had oil in it to prevent it from rusting on the inside. I have drained the oil but obviously it will still have an oil lining. Question, do I need to completely remove the oil ? If yes what is the best method. Also, what is the procedure when removing. What precautions should I take especially with regards the fuel pump.
Thanks in advance for your help

Mario

[Dave Wheatley]

Here's what I would do. I would put a couple of pints of kerosine in the tank and swill it around. Tip it into a vessel so that you can see the colour and any contamination. Do it again if necessary. When you get clear kero, empty it and let the tank dry out. Fit the tank, and change the fuel filter after a 100 or so miles and then again after 2/300 miles. Don't forget to dispose of the kero responsibly.
Standing by for incoming!
Good luck

[Ian F]

That sounds fine to me Dave! Perhaps a bit ott, but better than being neglectful.
I would perhaps just give it a rinse with 99 octane and then use as normal

Ian F

[Simon G.]

Blimey - am I the only person round here who remembers upper cylinder lubricant??!!

SG

[Mario60]

Hi

Many thanks for your input. Are there any precautions I should take about the fuel pump

Thanks and regards


Mario

[nathan_f]

Good luck! I have one of the touring tanks on backorder from Moss and will be installing it in my '78 as soon as it arrives. As it stands, mine has what I presume to be a rather large rust hole near the top, judging by the amount of petrol that was on the ground when I parked it on a steep-ish incline after filling up not long ago...

Let us know how it goes and any tips/tricks you figured out in the process!

[Vic Butler]

The top is the vulnerable part because all the crud gets trapped. When I replaced the tank on my 77 BGT years ago I painted the complete tank with Hammerite black anti rust paint and then plastered the top with underseal.
Of course that won't stop the inevitable corrosion from the inside. A galvanized tank would be the answer.

[Mario60]

Hi Vic,

When you put back the tank in place, do you bolt it up, connect, fill with petrol and fire it up, or is there anything else or procedure you need to do?

Thanks in advance

Regards


Mario

[Dave Wheatley]

The top is the vulnerable part because all the crud gets trapped. When I replaced the tank on my 77 BGT years ago I painted the complete tank with Hammerite black anti rust paint and then plastered the top with underseal.
Of course that won't stop the inevitable corrosion from the inside. A galvanized tank would be the answer.

I think a galvanised tank would still corrode from the inside, unless the galvanising does cover the inside.
Any tank made today will most probably be handmade, so I see stainless as being the best material. If you take off the cost of galvanising, the price difference shouldn't be all that great.

[Ian F]

Stainless steel tanks were available some time ago. I recall they were rather square boxy designs, not sure what capacity they had.
They weren't made by the mainstream suppliers, and I haven't seen them for quite a while.

Ian F