Prop shaft - torquing

[Tom Brearley]

Can anyone advise how best to torque the 8 prop shaft retaining nuts? Access with a socket is difficult as it fouls on the UJs.

Many thanks

Tom
1973 GT

[Ian F]

Tom,
this may seem like heresay to some, but I don't use a torque wrench for the reasons you outline. I think I can guess what circa 35 ft lbs feels like and using new nylock nuts have never had any problems. As a belt and braces approach you could also apply some thread lock, and done up as tight as you can with a standard length ring spanner I would think that would be fine.
Others may disagree of course.

I should say that I am generally obsessive about torque settings and have three torque wrenches!

Ian F

[Tom Brearley]

Thanks Ian.

That's the approach I took!

Tom

[Peter Cresswell]

Tom and Ian,
That's how I do them!
If you keep the back wheels off the ground by supporting the car on axle stands, the bolt that is at the lowest point is easy to get to. Loosely tighten that one, making sure the flange on the propshaft is fitting into the flange on the pinion, then turn the propshaft so the other 3 can be fitted loosely, then go round again tightening fully with a ring spanner. I have a 7/16 / 1/2 AF one with the 1/2 AF end ground down to make it easier to get in as space is quite tight, but a high quality spanner should be thin enough to do the job. Unfortunately all the ratchet spanners I have tried are too fat to get in. For good quality spanners I quite like Halfords Professional range.
I've never lost a propshaft using this method including on my racing MGTC which would have been spinning at nearly 8,000rpm in top gear at times.

[Ian F]

Thanks Pete, good to have that affirmation.

Ian F

[Tom Brearley]

Yes, thanks. Glad to know it wasn't a silly question.