oil filter seal

[mark robson]

Changed the oil and filter on our '69 MkII on the weekend.

All went very well until I started the engine to check for leaks, and I suddenly had about one quart of oil on the floor,
literally pouring out from the filter seal.

So this is the first time I've changed the oil on a B. Retraced my steps and refitted the filter seal properly and now all is good. It's the older style, NOT
the spin-on type. I guess I'm not Robinson Crusoe ending up with the oil on the floor, is this why the spin-on adaptor conversions
came about, or do I just need to learn from this experience and get it right the first time round next time?

The new filter came with 3 seals of varying width, I ended up using the thickest of the three. Are the others for other models
or just due to the varying size of the pressings over so many years?.

All I need to do next is find all those grease nipples in the British suspension.

[Ian F]

Hi Mark,
I suspect the majority of us changing this type of filter have had this experience at one time or another! A common mistake is to not take out the old seal because it is so hard to see and get at. These filters have several applications - hence the different size seals included with the filter. I did find (on the interweb) a note describing which seal to use with which application, but generally if you use the one most similar to the one which came out, you should be OK. The seal should fill the annular groove in the adapter, and should be generously lubricated with engine oil to prevent it getting displaced when you screw the canister back on (the canister often turns as you tighten the bolt).
I'm happy to stay with this original type of filter (on my early midget) but I have to say that the later spin-on type as fitted to my '72 BGT is much easier to change. It is the inverted type (easy to get at) but always produces a significant spillage of oil when being unscrewed, so not a perfect design!
Welcome to the forum,
best regards

IanF

[Peter Cresswell]

Having had many cars in the 60s and 70s with this type of oil filter arrangement (Minis, T-Types, MGA/B/C etc), I must admit to never changing the sealing ring! On cars with the filter fitted the right way up - i.e with the canister hanging down so the oil doesn't go everywhere when it is undone - it is difficult to get the ring out and a new one fitted as you can't see what you are doing! So in my impatient youth I just didn't bother. Ok the later MGB and C which have the filters 'upside down so all the oil in the canister goes everywhere' is easier but I don't remember getting a leak if the ring wasn't changed.
I am soon to change the oil and I am proposing changing the sealing ring on my roadster ready for the season, so I'll note the comments from Mark and Ian above!

[Ian F]

Like Peter I often didn't change the seal on my earlier vehicles. However, I do now. Should you want to get the seal out the easiest way I found was to use a sharp sturdy needle and skewer the ring from below - you don't need to see it this way, it can be done by touch! Then you can make sure you fit the largest seal which comfortably fits into the adapter - hold it in place with engine oil.

IanF

[mark robson]

Yeah I knew I wouldn't be the first.

I should have introduced myself a bit first. I've been taking British cars apart for 35 years,
as well as servicing the growing family fleet. I once took the engine out of a Turbo Esprit, built my own
Renault16 engine for a Europa, so my DIY experience is quite lengthy. If you've changed the clutch on a
mid-engined car you can just abut do anything.
As well as the B, we now have an F, 2 family wagons,
3 sons have cars and 1 girlfriend's car to look after. ( son's girlfriend, not mine LOL ) So this is my
6th oil filter change since November.

However doing a car for the 1st time is always interesting. Taking a good grip on the body while tightening the bolt
is a great idea, I hope I remember it next time. we've only had the B for a few months, so it still needs some straightening out
mechanically. It came with about 1/2 pint of gearbox oil ( wondered why the overdrive didn't work - not ) I also need to get a new timing light
as my old one has rusted away from lack of use with the advent of computers in cars.

I fixed the upside down filter issue, I loosened the bolt just enough to let the oil start leaking out ( into a catch tray of course ),
then went and had a cup of tea. Thought I was clever as a was catching all the oil. But I wasn't smart enough to leave the tray in place
when I fired up the motor to check for leaks LOVFL.

It has a nice motor though, spark plugs looked great.
Next I am learning about heater boxes once we get it mechanically sound and all in working order.


Any tricks with the brakes I should know about?

[Ian F]

Hi Mark, sounds as if you have done more than many of us in the MGCC! As always though, working on a car for the first time always raises some little issues to deal with.
MGB Brakes in my experience are very straightforward, and all parts are available (even though some are of dubious quality - try to get OE spec replacements if you can). Never thought about upgrading the brakes either - seem fine for most uses. I used to compete in a drum braked TR2 so perhaps my expectations are not that great!
Heater boxes will give you some fun on the B. I submitted an article to "Safety Fast" some time ago about heater box replacement. I can let you have a copy if you can't find it in "Safety Fast". A pretty awkward thing to deal with - probably the most awkward thing on a B!

IanF

[Vic Butler]

What happens to the collar from which the oil cooler pipe runs? On my previous BGT this would drop down when the filter bowl was removed so its sealing ring had to be replaced, hence the several rings with the filter. I grew fed up of this so I converted it to spin on. My current 77 BGT has it fitted. However, as the spin on filter is upside down it is very important to ensure that it is fitted with an anti drain valve to keep the oil in it when the engine is not running otherwise the oil will drain out resulting in oil starvation until the filter fills. I use Fram PH2857A filters which have the valve and are available from my local independent motor factor. There is very little spillage when removing the filter as the oil stays in it
. Vic Butler

[Paul Wiley]

I also have a 77 car with the spin on filter. Removing it makes quite mess, dropping oil over the engine. So before I remove it I punch a small hole in the end of the filter. A nail or small cold chisel with do this easily. Then most of the oil drains back in toe the sump in about 15 - 20 minutes (longer is better). There are still some oil drops when you remove the filter but the quantity is much less.

For me the best arrangement I have found on other cars was to have a spin on filter which was mounted below the mounting. Then it can be fill with oil before fitting. Then there is oil pressure almost immediately on turning the engine over. I know you can take out the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter motor to do this before it is started but I prefer to get pressure up as soon as possible.

A long time ago I had a Toyota van with a canister in which the filter elements was fitted. The canister hung down but anogside the main fixing bolt was a small drain plug. This arrangement also worked well.