MGB Register Forum

Yes. Whilst some noises can be annoying the B series motors are tough as old boots. I have had a couple of J4 vans with this same basic motor in (1600cc) which endured terrible mistreatment. The guy who supplied and pressed on my piston (J&E Engineering in Rossendale, Lancs. A 'B' specialist) di...

You really need access to an English Wheel to get the double curvature right, and the raised part in the centre that lines up with the MG badge on the grille will still be a problem. Now the show season looks like it will go ahead this year, find a bonnet that is in good condition and use that. Alu...

Two weeks on and it seems good. The knocking noise is not present and the new cam (12" and 14" thou settings) seems to provide less tappet noise. Still have 70psi pressure all the time. Even the release bearing growl (it turned out to have a new clutch and release bearing) has gone. I've o...

I had the same problem, but only for a minute or so. The drive lugs seem to be a very precise fit. The OP did have the offset in the drive and the distributor matched up, did they?

I sent the piston and rod in question (No 1) to Jonathan at J&E Engineering in Lancashire (about 90 miles away) http://www.jandeengineering.co.uk/mg.html . He decided the little end was damaged. That is the piston was damaged where the gudgeon pin runs in the piston. He could see some marks on t...

I would suspect that the damage to the edge of the conrod and the camshaft was caused by the debris from the dropped valve, possibly the broken off valve head getting between the conrod and the camshaft. I take it the dropped valve happened before you bought the car but it appears not to have done ...

It seemed to me that the rod/gudgeon pin fit was fine? Any looseness may be in the piston fit? Ian F Yes. That's was supposed to be my message in the video. The pin is a press fit in the little end of the rod. My suspicion is that the gudgeon boss in the piston is at the extreme of the tolerances a...

I was reading that Aldon prefer not to use heat. But the pin does need a push of between 3 and 5 tons to move it. I have a friend who is an independent engineer who has the gear. It's a matter of getting a piston/pin with enough interference not to slop about too much but not be too tight. Quite how...

Ah no. The cam marks are still suspect. :shock: I don't think the big ends are anything to consider. No noise. Good oil pressure. But for twenty quid I would be mad not to replace the big end shells whilst I have it in bits. The ones there at the moment are scuffed, again I think from starting it up...

I've taken the other pistons out and have done a little video to show what I think may be the answer. Or not. https://youtu.be/hYu_98XYFKc The newer piston is looser on the gudgeon pin than the originals. It seems to slide along the pin more easily and may be making the knocking noise as it does so....